Thursday 16 October 2008

Guatemala our last Latin American call 25 Sept - 6 Oct

We had travelled all the way up from Ushuia - Argentina, South America's and the worlds most southerly city and had overlanded the whole continent of South America and Central America to get here, to Guatemala, our last port of call before climbing in a plane to Miami and connecting to a whole other world - South East Asia .... this is after all called Mavrix go SOUTH.
But lets not get ahead of ourselves, we still had Gautemala to conquer and see before we jumped over the sea. We had left our little crew behind in Copan and gone through one of the easiest border crossings ever, they didnt even give us a stamp (although this actually sucks as stamps are like souvenirs you can look back on while bored on a 12 hour bus ride, but then again we have our nerd backpacks to remind us of that....we'll tell you about those another time). We had decided to be cheap and hardcore as usual and decided to take the local transport system i.e. chicken buses rather than the Gringo Shuttles that are always faster but 3 times the price. Well not in this case, for once the shuttle would have turned out to be cheaper and 3 times faster! We ended up having to switch between roughly 4 chicken buses until we finally got to our destination 8 hours later, the river town of Rio Dulce (Sweet River). This is the Hurricane season docking station for many a yacht that calls the Caribbean home and therefore a little of a jet set attraction. We thought it was ok... Its really just a Central American version of Hartebeasport with Yachts. There was a really cool hot spring waterfall nearby however that gives you the hot and cold feeling at the same time but that was just good for a day trip really.
So after 2 nights in the worlds biggest dorm (16 people - 1 room) we jumped on the worlds most crowded bus for a 4 hour journey to Tikal. Tikal is one of the most striking and largest of the Mayan cities with a unique setting, smack dab in the middle of the jungle! We had booked the sunrise tour and while we didnt get to see much of a sunrise due to excessive fog, what we did get to hear was the jungle waking up! Especially the jungles loudest animal, the Howler monkey! Imagine that a monkey learnt how to imitate a lion and you are getting close.... only really loud and up in the treesa feminine lion barking long and hard.
As we walked from tree canopy to tree canopy we kept being jumped by giant temples rising into the sky some 60 meters high. We also got to climb a few as steep as they were, with ladders reaching up high and the M got to feel his 31 years coming down and the V's head also...ooops sorry. Your views at the top are truly awesome though, you get to realise how big these cities must have been and how many people they would have housed. The temples themselves are solid, no secret compartments or burial chambers hidden inside these limestone walls, just temples built ontop of temples like Russian dolls. They were built as memorials to the Mayan civilization so that centuries down the line people like us would look at them and remember, the Mayans wanted to be immortal.
While the size and scope as well as the setting of Tikal was amazing, the Mavrix still had a sweeter spot for the smaller and far more detailed Copan in Honduras. No mighty monuments reaching into the sky to be found there but a far finer chisel that recorded history better and the feel of the place and how it was.
Now that we had travelled all the way to the north of Guatemala it was time to put on the brakes and U-turn back down south with our eventual destination being the Guatemala city airport. Hmmm what should we do V? I dont know M, how about some caving, river swinging and general frolicking in Semuc Champe? That sounds great, lets go go gadget! So off the Mavrix went to the very hard to reach but stunningly beautiful Semuc Champe (we arrived in the end in the back of a bakkie under a plastic sheet to shelter from the rain).
Our hostel was in the middle of the jungle here and had a relaxing atmostphere that seeped into your pours. We enjoyed doing pretty much nothing here, but we enjoyed doing the caving even more. Semuc Champes series of caves are best visited with a candle in one hand and the rock wall steadying you in the other. You swim, slide and jump through the cave system with nothing but you and your mates candle to light the way as you go past stalactites, huge underground waterfalls and prey that flash floods (it could happen tomorrow) dont occur! It was great fun and finished with a fun filled bit of tubing down the river right to our hostel, the V did fall off her tube at one point and almost lost her flip flop but thanks to the "claw" (her right toe) it was saved as was she.
The next day we explored the stunningly beautiful pools and waterfalls formed by Semuc Champes underwater river in the national park, not much to say other than its colours are electric, the waters cool and its good for a few hours swimming and cavorting.

Our next stop was Antigua which we reached by Gringo shuttle (we had learnt our Guatemalan lesson by now). Antigua is a another beautiful Colonial town much like Granada and Leon only better, Antigua is an Unesco World Heritage site and has ruins and classic architecture throughout the city, not just in the old town section. Its also flanked by several volcanoes and has the fully active Putaya Volcano just 1hr outside of town...cool.

With our flight in just a week the Mavrix decided to settle down and chill out in Antigua doing very little for a while. Normally our skins start to itch after being in a town for more than 2-3 days but our stay was made infinitly easier by a new made friend Wesley(Weza as his Mom knows him, Sharpy as his mates back home know him and Wesley John Sharpe as the law knows him). Weza is a crazy goof ball that has made "trippin balls" his life motto and daily routine, he's a mechanical engineer working in the Ozzie mines, a graffitti artist working on Melbournes trains and a genuine person made of the good stuff. He would be attached to the Mavrix hip for the next week and we welcomed his company.

One of our first excursions together was to the mighty Putaya Volcano. One hour out of the city and one hour mean ass hiking through the rain, straight up, into the clouds, we reached the volcano with the light starting to get orange but scarce. Cresting the peak we saw the river of lava flowing infront of us, much faster than we would have thought and much brighter than we would have imagined. As you clamber over the rocks to get a better and closer look (no 1st world country would ever let you this close to a live volcano) you start hearing the crackle and hiss of burning rock beneath your feet, look down and you see the burning coals peaking out between the cracks, by the way, dont stand still for too long or you'll start feeling like your feet are pork sausages on the Sunday braai. Get even closer and you forget all about the rain, you feel very dry suddenly and very very hot, the wind changes and the air gets knocked out of your throat, you shield your eyes and take an involuntary step back.... whats that smell? Oops I stood still too long my shoes are burning. Ah - I'm melting! At this point we pulled out our marshmellows (the Mavrix had come prepared), using a very long stick we held the marshies out over the lava and 2-3 seconds later "DING" they were done, sometimes over done or even flaming....yum... nothing like freshly volcano roasted marshmellows on a rainy afternoon.

The rest of our time in Antigua was spent playing basketball with the locals next to ruins, walking the town and generally just enjoying the calm before the storm of our next big jump across the pond to Thailand. It was during this time that an idea was born between the Triopoly as we had started calling ourselves (Weza and the Mavrix). We created a book. This book would contain a story from each of us about our travels or our lives. We would then hold onto the book until we found someone like minded to give it to, they would then write their story and pass it on again, and so on and so on. At the end of the books journey the last person would be asked to send it to one of the Triopoly. Here it would be written out in full and maybe even published with ever member of the "book club" who had contributed to the stories being sent their own copy. In this trip the book would have crossed the world, gone from hand to hand, been read and reread and shortened the distance between all the people who read it. We look forward to getting the book back, whether it be in 1 year or 20 years.

Another goodbye, this time not only to a new friend (a really good one that we will hopefully reconnect with in Oz one day) but also to Latin America our home for the last 7 months. We would also be saying goodbye or rather "Adios" to Spanish but had vowed to keep it as our secret language in South East Asia as we had used Afrikaans in Latin America (lets see if that lasts...). But first we would have to make it through the USA...

Wednesday 15 October 2008

Honduras - Copan Ruinas and Utilla in the Bay Islands 14 - 24 Sept


After an eventful border crossing and 2 days travelling made easier by the weight of numbers (we were travelling in a group of 8) we had exited Nicaragua, travelled through the worlds hardest to pronounce capital city, Tegucigulpa (Teh-goo-see-gulp-ah) and landed on the small Caribean Island of Utila in the Bay Islands.

Utila is known worldwide for its beautiful reefs (2nd biggest right after the barrier reef) and super cheap diving. The Mavrix now expert divers after having completed their Open Water course in Taganga Colombia were keen to dive again and with the Welshman in tow (Liam) signed up for a 12 dive package. Nice thing about Utilla is that there is so much competition between dive shops this meant we got our accomodation for free as well as free snorkeling etc, it practically felt like they would have given up their first born son for us to sign up. Utilla is also somewhat of a party island with loads of backpackers walking the streets at night dodging the many daredevil scooter drivers that whip their way up and down the islands main road and ducking into the many bars that accomodate the islands other big pursuit, this meant a few nights fun on the water not of the diving variety for the Mavrix. We think this might be the main reason that so many get "stuck" here, our dive master had come for a week and had stayed for 3 years as do many, we dont really understand it but hey to each their own. Although Utila was great fun and the diving was beautiful it must be said that it is not the prettiest of islands (or are we just spoilt after the Corn Islands???), the beaches are average and the roads too busy for our liking - No go slow on THIS island. Utila also has some serious wildlife going on, namely mosquitos, iguanas and tarantulas. Brad and Ed were to find this out one night when returning to their room, they had already chucked out one tarantula previously only for another to make its home on the wall above their heads. So freaked out where these 2 city boys that they went to managment to get the problem sorted out to which a sleeping soul replied "Its a 3rd world country, deal with it!", harsh for them, hilarious for us!!

After some great diving and good times we decided to keep on moving with our next destination in Honduras being Copan. Copan is an old Maya city right on the border of Guatemala and Honduras. After arriving late the night before we made an early start for the ruins, a short 1km walk outside of town. While Copan is not as big as some other Mayan cities it has an astounding amount of detail still in tact with many sculptures and estellas (like reliefs) scattered throughout. This makes it a beautiful and interesting site to visit, we often found ourselves bending over and sticking our nose in close to get a better look at some of the beautiful works. Also very interesting was the ball court, one of soccers great ancestors where Mayans would play with a ball made out of extract from the rubber tree with the outcome of the game determining life or death! Funnily enough the winner was the one to be sacrificed, much like Muslims believe that they get 40 virgins and a Big Mac if they blow themselves up, the Mayans believed that if they won the ball game they would accend to heaven as kings and recieve a great many virginal wives with a happy ending.
This was to be a quick stop though and also a goodbye to our travelling buddies of the last 3-4 weeks as we were all heading off in different directions :( It was sad to leave our little family but we have done this many times by now and is just a part of life when travelling. Next destination Guatemala...

Monday 13 October 2008

Little and Big Corn Islands - Nicaragua 8 - 13 Sept

Well no-one said it would be easy, no-one said it would be so damn hard either!!!

We had opted to be cheap bastards and take the long overland route to the Corn Islands using Chicken Buses(public buses that cram everyone in like chickens in the Kernels bucket) as well as boats and ferries as opposed to the super easy but expensive option of the plane. The next few days would be hard! We caught a 2 hour chicken bus to Managua (ugly sprawling Nicaraguan capital city) then a cross town cab for 40 minutes, a 7 hour seriously squashed chicken bus to Rama, slept the night in little Rama, caught the early launcha (speed boat) 2 hours into Bluefields (one of the ugliest and least safe feeling places we have been) only to find out that there wasnt a ferry for another 3 days. It was at this point that we caved in and took the plane the last bit of the journey to Big Corn the next morning. Lets just say that this trip made us hard core travelers but not happy ones.

But hey we were there! Well almost... Big Corn is really pretty, but it wasnt quite what we wanted, the beaches were beautiful however the place was deserted apart from some locals and the rest of the island felt too built up and suburban, we thought we would give Little Corn a try the next day via a short 1 hour speedboat leaving at 7am, after all the guied book said that this was an idylic piece of paradise as yet undiscovered by the throngs of crusie boats.




WOW! Thats what we kepy saying about Little Corn once we got there, this was more our speed! Little Corn is a tiny 1.7km island stuck in the Caribean with pretty, still waters lapping at the white sand of beaches polka dotted with coconut trees, oh and there isnt a car or motor bike on the island but there are speedbumps on the paths just in case you ride your bike too fast - "take it slow mon, take it slow". Some history...While the Spanish conquered the mainlands of South and Central America, the English planted their flags all over the Caribean and transplanted slaves all over the region from Africa meaning that today you have the decendants of those African slaves all over the island speaking a slow lyrical drawl somewhere between English and Creol (although you also have Mosquit and Spanish spoken here too). They are also devoted listeners of the great Bob Marley and in their opinion the even GREATER Lucky Dube (or like they call him Lucky Doobs). It was great walking though the island hearing home playing back at us...
We stayed at Gracies place also known as Cool Spot on the quiet side of the island. Gracie is a super cool Mom type who hands out hugs all day and the occasional free mango or avo (island pear) if she thinks you look too hungry. Our little cabin was literally ON the beach, we had to shake the sand off our feet before going inside and we could spit into the ocean if we were so inclined it was that close. During our stay here lying on hammocks and sunning ourselves we met Brad, Toby and Liam. Brad is a gruff talking, hard edged loud American from Philly but has a sensitive side if you're willing to hear it out, Toby is a Swiss hippy with a girl back home and Liam is the English/Welsh man Commando who served in both invasion forces - Afganistan and Iraq but you would never be able to tell, he has a comical nature and none of the brash crew cut style you would associate with an army man. These would become our friends over the next few weeks and great people to experience the island with.

We spent our days generally just enjoying the island for what it is. We would wake up and go for a soak in the water, climb a tree for a coconut breakfast, snorkel around the reefs chasing sting rays, play frisbee and bat n ball in the water, eat coconut bread and lobsters, bash down dominos with the locals, swing in hammocks, play volley ball and just enjoy being beach bums.... good times. Oh and Vix beat the boys at a game of poker meaning she got a free lobster dinner on us....yum.
By the end of our week in paradise our skins had attained a well tanned if slightly salty sheen, our bodies were relaxed and our hearts happy. We were sad to leave Little Corn, sad to say farewell to Mama Gracie who had treated us with smiles and hugs like we were one of her own (she already has 6, I cant see why she would want more?) and sad to bid farewell to the sand between our toes but we had a flight in Miami to get to and we couldnt dilly nor dally any longer. We organised to meet the boys back in Leon, they would be flying back while we were intent on doing the trip back better this time, so off we went.

First we caught a speed boat back at 2pm to Big Corn, too early we thought but it would be good place to hang around, do a bit of grocery shopping and internet before the ferry left for the mainland around midnight. On our arrival the dock hand pointed out the ferry, a little speck in the horizon. It seems that ferry captains keep their own schedules and he left at 2pm instead of midnight and no way were we hanging around in Big Corn for 3 more days waiting for the next ferry. So with a couple locals alongside us we organised a speed boat to go out and "catch" the ferry which was a high sea adventure in itself. The speed boat had done the catching up in about 10 minutes of wave crashing and now we stood swaying chaotically up and down at high sea next to the much higher ferry, which was more fishing boat meets tug than a ferry. Those already on board grabbed and pulled us and our belongings roughly on board onto the greasy deck of the good ship "smells like fish and guts". There wasnt a chair to speak of but some of the locals in the know had brought their own hammocks, we werent so lucky, all we got was a big piece of cardboard that would be our mattress next to the railingless edge for the next 12 hours through the night. We arrived after a stomache churning and smelly night to the river town of Rama at 3am where a self confessed jail jumper from america showed us the closest ATM, not the best guide but a necessary one. From there we caught the 4am chicken bus and arrived in Leon 9 hours later impressed with ourselves for our resourseful backpacking never say die nature!

Here we would meet up again with our friends from Little Corn, you would think that after 24 hours of rough house traveling we would be baying for our beds but instead we decided to head off and celebrate Central American independence with a party on the beach. After some fun antics including Vix jumping off the back of a moving bakkie for the M and the crew getting a hitch back on an overcrowded bakkie "ow my leg huuurts" :). We fell into bed at the Big Foot hostel and smiled, travelling is hard sometimes but always worth it...

Saturday 4 October 2008

Travelin through Panama, Costa Rica and Nicaragua 26 August - 7 Sept

Fresh off an awesome 5 days sailing from Colombia through the magical San Blas islands the Mavrix caught a plane and landed in Panama City, a new day, a new country, same old slow ass customs officials, oh well. Our plan was to hit Central America like a red headed step child, hard and fast. We needed to be in Miami for our flight to Bangkok Thailand by the 7th of October and had roughly 6 countries in the way, plus we had an appointment with the US Embassy in San Jose Costa Rica in 2 days because we needed a Visa just for going through the bloody airport (bloody paranoid Americans). This all meant that our time would be short but we would make the most of it.

Panama City is the only nice capital in all of Central America, the rest are dirty, dangerous and chaotic places while Panama City manages to look pretty at times and even have some semblance of order. Walking in the streets we found ourselves wishing we had bigger bags so we could buy the $1 denim jeans we saw everywhere, we also gawked at the brightly coloured and feverishly designed local buses ¨Diablos Rojos¨who were only out sparkled by the brightly dressed traditional women walking amongst the city´s highrises as if this was all perfectly normal, its kind of like seeing a Zulu in full traditional gear walking shopping in Sandton. We also managed to make our way out to one of the worlds great engineering marvels, the Atlantic to Pacific connecting, Panama Canal. What can you really say about the canal other than its big, impressive and the ships miss either side of the canal by less than a Blue Bulls fan´s ¨Boep¨, thats one impressive parking job!

The next day we caught an overnight bus into San Jose - Costa Rica with just an afternoon to spare before our ïnterview¨with the annoying American Embassy . This meant filling out a bunch of forms including one that asked ¨Are you intending to enter the USA to carry out any terrorist activities, engage in sexual acts with a minor or any other criminal activity?¨...... we said ¨no¨. Our day at the embassy started at 7h00 and ended after 15h00, it was a thrilling time of que standing, staring at the ceiling, finger tapping and some stealthy nose picking. All this fun eventually cost us $145 each but we now have the right to enter the ¨Great¨ USA and walk from one side of Miami airport to the other where we can catch a plane out of there. We could have used that money to buy a 145 pairs of jeans...

We decided to get out of Costa Rica pretty quickly, we had had enough of America and Costa Rica is practically a colony of the US. The street signs are in English instead of Spanish and there are more malls and fast food chains than sesame seeds on a Mac Muffin. So next thing we tripped up to Nicaragua in search of some fun and a more authentic Latin American experience. We didnt find it at our first stop, the small surfing town of San Juan del Sur which is more an American and Aussie surf hangout than anything else plus a freak wave stole the Vixens favourite Buenos Aires bought top and swallowed it into the surf. Bummer Dude.

Isla de Ometepe was just a short hop away from there, its an island in the middle of the HUGE Lake Nicaragua that sports 2 giant volcanoes, fresh water sharks (gulp) and lush green rice fields. The place is a beauty and a marvel but being out of season meant it was also super boring and the Mavrix dont do super boring! So off we travelled again in search of the good life.

Granada was a bit more like it! This beautiful colonial town proved a great place to meet other travellers and just absorb some atmostphere. Beautiful multicoloured buildings and ncie weather had us walking the streets just for fun for half the day. The hostel we stayed at also had enormous and cheap food which we hungrily scoffed down with smiles and sticky fingers. One of our 3 nights here we entered into a small poker tournament just for shits and giggles and managed to get our bums handed to us in a paper bag by the local card sharks. It was good fun though and a laugh if only for the profesionals at the table.

Our next decision was made by a flip of a coin over a beer, do we go to the Corn Islands? A little slice of the Caribean just off the almost uninhabited Nicaraguan coastline? No-one we had met had actually been there mainly because its a real mission to get there unless you fly which is obviously expensive. But heads it was and we decided to just do it even if it was the hard way...